Sky Fever


One man transformed Hatfield from a small town into an industrial centre of excellence: Sir Geoffrey de Havilland. His working life spanned the earliest days of powered flight, through two world Wars, to pioneering jet passenger planes.

Geoffrey was born in 1882 into an upper middleclass family which could trace their line back to the Normans.  His father was an eccentric, bad tempered, clergyman. He had better luck with his mother and her father, a successful farmer, who subsidised his daughter and grandchildren. Geoffrey and his elder brilliant brother Ivon were both keen electrical and mechanical engineers from boyhood. Together they built dynamos, steam engines, and eventually motor cycles and cars.  Geoffrey trained for three years at Crystal Palace Engineering School, then worked for a couple of engineering firms making engines and cars.

Ivon designed the Iris, an innovative motor car, in 1905 but suddenly died of influenza – the first of several tragedies.

In 1908 Wilbur Wright toured Europe showing his heavier-than-air flying machine.  Geoffrey was enthralled.  “I was seized with an ambition to design and build my own aeroplane and nothing was going to hold me back.”

His grandfather stumped up £1,000 (£150,000 today), and a young apprentice Frank Hearle was hired. Geoffrey created a twin propeller biplane, with an engine of his own design, made out of timber, piano wire and doped fabric sewn by his new wife Louise.  Hangars were bought at Seven Barrows, grass downland in Hampshire near his family home.

In December 1909 all was ready. Geoffrey knew how to build planes but not how to fly them. This ignorance nearly cost him his life: on the first – and only - flight of this plane he pulled back too hard on the control stick causing it to stall and crash. Luckily he was only slightly concussed.

Undeterred he redesigned the plane, making it lighter and simpler.  The following summer he got it to fly safely a few inches above the ground for twenty yards - “the most important and memorable moment of my life.”  After many weeks of trials he managed to take off, climb a hundred feet, circle the field and land.  A little while after he was so confident of the plane and his skill as a pilot that he added a seat and took up Louise his wife with their 8 week old son Christopher in her arms.

This was the beginning of a tremendous career. Within two years a British altitude record of 10,500 feet was achieved in an aircraft of his design piloted by younger brother Hereward. He sold it to the newly created Royal Aircraft Factory, then joined them to design and test planes. He was commissioned into the Royal Flying Corps. In May 1914 he was recruited by Airco, in Hendon, where he designed aircraft, all designated by his initials DH, which were tested in combat in WWI. By 1918 one third of Allied aircraft were designed by him. In 1920 Airco collapsed so he formed de Havilland Aircraft Company manufacturing at Stag Lane Aerodrome, Edgware. He was financed by a wealthy amateur pilot, Alan Butler, who in 1923 became the Company’s Chairman, which he remained until 1950 (when de Havilland employed 20,000 people).  Many airplanes were designed there, tested by Geoffrey, including the revolutionary family of Moth biplanes using its own Gypsy engines.

In 1930 the Company bought farmland near Hatfield, initially for its Flying School. In 1933 it started manufacturing there too with Frank Hearle as Works Manager.

In 1934 the wooden framed DH.88 Comet racer brought tremendous publicity by winning an Air Race from England to Australia.

During WW2 the company developed this Comet into the versatile and rapid DH.98 Mosquito (The Wooden Wonder). At first the RAF were sceptical but when they watched it outpace a Spitfire they were won over. 7,781 were built; 75,000 people including subcontractors worked on DH products during the war.

In 1943 another tragedy: his youngest son, John, died when two Mosquitos collided in clouds over St Albans.

In 1944 a friend Frank Halford who had designed the Gipsy engine joined.  His first gas turbine was the Goblin powering De Havilland's first jet, the Vampire.

In 1946 a third tragedy: his dashing son Geoffrey, who had carried out the first flights of the Mosquito and Vampire, was killed when an experimental jet, the DH.108, broke up in a dive attempting to break the Sound Barrier. (See a biography of Geoffrey Jr at  Remembering the life of daring test pilot Geoffrey de Havilland Jr - 75 years on from his tragic death | Welwyn Hatfield Times (whtimes.co.uk)).

Yet another tragedy followed. After the loss of Geoffrey Louise suffered a breakdown which de Havilland believed led to her death from cancer in 1949. She was buried alongside her two boys in Tewin churchyard.

In 1952 David Lean made a film The Sound Barrier whose leading character (played by Ralph Richardson) was clearly based on de Havilland senior. He was portrayed as a driven man, prepared to sacrifice test pilots including his own son-in-law to break the Barrier.  Doubtless this was an exaggeration but photos of de Havilland always show him unsmiling and focussed.

This determination and ambition created the DH.106 Comet, the world’s first jet powered passenger aircraft introduced in 1952, about which we will write next time.

Geoffrey controlled the Company until it was bought in 1960 by the Hawker Siddeley Group.  He was described as ambitious, and autocratic, but far from arrogant, “driving a Morris Minor and holding doors open for lowly apprentices”.

In 1961 he wrote an autobiography, Sky Fever, which is a good read.   He had been knighted in 1944 and appointed to the Order of Merit in 1962.

He died in 1965 aged 82 of a cerebral haemorrhage; his ashes were scattered from the air over the site of his first flight, Seven Barrows.

His statue – seated and staring into the distance - was erected in 1997 in the College Lane campus of the University of Hertfordshire.  This had started life as Hatfield Technical College, built on land donated to Hertfordshire County Council by Butler.

To find out more about this great man visit the de Havilland Museum at London Colney - a truly fascinating place.

Garden Cities – Cranky or Enlightened?

Welwyn Garden City is a brave attempt to create a Utopia – an ideal community.  The word was coined by Sir Thomas More in his political satire of the same name published after his death in 1515.  It is derived from Greek, literally good-place or no-place – ie  impossible ideal. 

In Victorian times several successful industrialists sought to build utopian model villages for their workers, inspired by a combination of religious conviction, guilt, paternalism, and self-interest. The two best known were Port Sunlight on Merseyside and Bournville near Birmingham.

Port Sunlight was founded in 1890 by William Lever, later Lord Lever, for his employees manufacturing Sunlight Soap, which he had made famous by clever advertising.  He created a beautiful and comfortable estate, which combined visual appeal and social purpose. 

Bournville’s creators were the Quaker brothers George and Richard Cadbury, who started building in 1898.  Their father John was a teetotaller who had built up a thriving business in drinking cocoa, motivated by a desire to provide a healthy alternative to alcohol which he saw as a major source of social problems. Gin shops were popular, promising ‘Drunk for a penny, Dead drunk for two pence’.  John believed that the man who abstained from alcohol could afford a joint of beef on a Sunday.   Naturally no pubs were allowed in Bournville.

Interestingly, William Lever had a similar view of alcohol. His parents were strictly observant Congregationalists; his father James was a teetotaller and a non-smoker, who applied his religious principles in his business life as well as in his personal life. William too was a life-long teetotaller.

He ran Port Sunlight on paternalistic lines and workers who lost their jobs could be almost simultaneously evicted. On the other hand, he was keen to allow the residents of Port Sunlight a degree of democratic control. In 1900 he opened the Bridge Inn which of course sold no alcohol. Within two years the workers became restive and sought to change its status to a licensed house. Lever announced that he would not impose his own views, and that the issue would be decided by a referendum; insisting somewhat unconventionally for that time that women would take part. However, he stipulated that the Bridge would only become a true British pub if a supermajority of 75% was in favour. (Very sensible – only a rash person would hold a referendum on a major issue without requiring a substantial majority in favour). He probably felt confident that the outcome would support his abstemious sentiments, but in the event more than 80% voted for an alcohol licence.

 the The World’s End is an apocalyptic science fiction comedy film from 2015.  It tells the story of five middle-aged men on a nostalgic pub crawl which gets disrupted when they discover that the locals have been taken over by aliens. Their aim had been to visit twelve pubs, finishing at one called The World’s End.  The film was shot in Letchworth, Welwyn Garden City, and for internal scenes Elstree Studios. The lead actor and writer, Simon Pegg, lives in Essendon and said that he chose the two Garden Cities as examples of pleasant modern towns.  He must have been aware of the reputation of Letchworth as being a mostly dry town with few pubs but perhaps this was all part of the joke. To make up numbers some buildings including Letchworth Station had to be dressed up as pubs.

Ebenezer Howard devoted a section of his book Garden Cities of Tomorrow to Temperance Reform.  He was not keen on alcohol but did not favour banning it completely, instead suggesting that profits from its sale should be diverted to building “asylums for those affected by alcoholism”. He proposed that the provision of services such as pubs should be decided by public ballot. 

The early settlers in Letchworth (which included Howard) were idealists seeking Utopia and far from conventional.  George Orwell somewhat sweepingly described the new town as attracting every form of “crank: fruit-juice drinker, nudist, sandal-wearer, sex-maniac, Quaker, ‘Nature-Cure’ quack, pacifist, and feminist”. (Road to Wigan Pier, p 152). 

When an enlightened ballot was set up to decide the provision of pubs, in which both men and women took part, a small majority voted against. Women carried the day, perhaps because they did not like to see men drunk.  Letchworth was a dry town until 1960 with just one inn, The Skittles, set up in 1907.  This sold only soft drinks and so was the legendary pub without beer; it was soon also without skittles as the locals shunned the game.

The Directors of the Company building Welwyn Garden were keen to avoid the cranky image of Letchworth, while maintaining its noble objectives. So, a “wet restaurant” was set up called The Cherry Tree. It was a modest wooden structure, designed by Louis de Soissons in 1921, Licenced in 1922. A larger public house replaced it in 1932, which was demolished in 1991.  The facade was retained for the Waitrose supermarket now occupying the site.

There already were pubs in the area. The Beehive in the small village of Hatfield Hyde dated from the early 17th Century, although it was only given a Licence in 1842. Owned by Lord Salisbury it became a favourite destination for early Garden citizens to walk to across the fields on a nice summer evening. Once the QEII hospital opened it was popular with hospital staff. It closed in 2016 as it was losing money and now looks very sad and empty.

The non-conformist spirit was certainly strong in Welwyn Garden. The Welwyn Times for 21/9/23 reports that, following an enquiry from the WGC Church Council, the Parish Council after a lively discussion agreed to ask the WGC Company to prohibit "calling" bells or other continuous ringing.  There followed a number of letters in the paper; one favoured a ban to " prevent a small minority disturbing the tranquillity or recreation of the vast majority. Continuous bell ringing on a Sunday is anti-social and intolerable to enlightened communities". Eventually all the churches in the area agreed not to ring their bells, which is still generally the position today.

The provision of pubs in the centre of the town remains a sensitive matter. Wetherspoons bought one of the large houses on Parkway, near the Fountain, some years ago and sought a Licence for a pub to be called the Cherry Tree. This was hotly contested by locals, ostensibly as being in the wrong location but more probably as being the wrong sort of pub. Planning permission was refused twice and in 2021 Wetherspoons threw in the bar towel and put the building up for sale. As this newspaper reports on 5th April, the building is now to be a Nursery School – so no danger of underage drinking.

The Backhouse room

On 26th August 1922 Edward Backhouse set off with a young Swiss guide to climb a mountain near Zermatt.  He was 46 and an experienced climber, but the route was taxing and he was advised to hire an additional guide.  None was available but he carried on.  After the two men failed to return a search was launched; eventually they were found dead, still roped together, at the foot of a 250 m drop. Edward was buried in the cemetery of St Peter’s in Zermatt, a Protestant Church built especially for the large number of Britons keen to climb the Matterhorn.

Edward was born in 1876 into a wealthy Quaker family.  e took a degree at Balliol and then worked for Barclays Bank (which was a merger of several Quaker Banks including Backhouse & Co).  He retired aged 40 to pursue nobler causes. During WW1 he was a conscientious objector, and worked as a baker’s roundsman in Camberwell.  At the time of his death he was the Labour candidate for Bedford. He  left £75,000, (£5.5m today).

Letchworth and Welwyn Garden City were founded by Ebenezer Howard as ideal cities, and they attracted idealists. Just before Howard unexpectedly bought the land for Welwyn in 1919 some Quakers with a connection to Letchworth had formed a Trust to back another New Town. It had money, and no land, while Howard had land but no money - a match made in heaven. In 1921 the Trust took a tenancy for 500 acres from Howard and set up an Agricultural Guild to feed the new arrivals.  It also created an Educational Association to provide schools, and built Guessens Court, a cooperative of 40 flats.

Edward Backhouse was the first Chairman of the New Town Trust, and of the Agricultural Guild, and a Director of Welwyn Garden City Ltd. It was therefore a great shock when he was killed.

As Quakers moved into Welwyn Garden they needed somewhere to worship so supported the Educational Association in converting a 17th Century open fronted cart store, part of an old farm on Handside Lane near the crossroads with Applecroft Road.  It was opened on March 23rd 1923, exactly 100 years ago, “to be used for comradeship and education”.  Naturally it was named in honour of Edward. In 1980 it was Listed Grade II.

In 1925 the Friends built a Meeting House nearby on Handside Lane, designed by Quaker architect H Clapham Lander, who had also converted the Backhouse Room. The Room carried on serving community needs, and still does today.  The Welwyn Garden City Quaker Meeting took over its management in 1962; if you are interested in renting it email backhousebooking@virginmedia.com.

There is a twist to this story.  In the 1930s Quakers were active in resettling Jews fleeing Germany, which was not easy as anti-semitism was rife, including in this country.  Jews set up Potters Bar Golf Club in 1923 because they were refused entry to local Clubs. Some rich aristocrats admired Hitler, for his opposition to Communism, including Roland, 2nd Lord Brocket, (grandfather of Charles, present Lord Brocket).  He attended Hitler’s 50th Birthday party in 1939, entertained leading Nazis at Brocket Hall including Ribbentrop, and acted as a conduit between Chamberlain and Hitler.

At that time Jews could only gain entry to the UK if they were well off, or in transit, or servants. After Kristallnacht, November 9th 1938, Jewish and Quaker community leaders persuaded the Government to allow 10,000 unaccompanied Jewish children to come here (Kindertransport). The gathering of the children, paperwork, and travel plans were coordinated by Quakers in Vienna and Berlin. In 1947 Quakers from the USA and Britain were jointly awarded a Nobel Peace Prize for this and other humane acts. The British Quaker who travelled to Oslo to collect the Prize was Margaret Backhouse, one of Edward’s sisters.       The Backhouse Room has a fine pedigree.                                   

A Brutalist building in Welwyn Garden City being demolished


Demolition of Roche building 29 Broadwater Road

In our previous article we described the successful conversion into luxury apartments of the near-derelict Roche HQ on Broadwater Road, dating from 1940. On the other side of that road, at Number 29, Roche added in 1977 a large office building to cope with their expanding business.

When Roche moved to their current beautiful new building in Shire Park in 2005, they sold off their earlier buildings - including Number 29. This was used as offices for a variety of businesses but planning permission has been granted to demolish it and build 128 affordable flats on the site. In the past month or so enormous wrecking machines have been at work to clear the site. It was a large muscular building in glass and concrete, typical of the Brutalist style which was popular in the 1960s and 70s.

Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road

Above: Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road, WGC designed by James Cubitt & Partners

Some of the more striking examples of Brutalism have been listed, but many more have fallen out of favour and suffered the fate of Number 29. It was well designed by James Cubitt & Partners, who created many of the Roche buildings in Welwyn Garden City. This practice, founded in 1947 and still in business, is highly regarded and examples of their work can be found across the world. Good design though does not provide protection, and large office blocks are falling out of favour. But should it have been demolished? It is much simpler for property developers to flatten existing buildings, then build new flats, rather than convert them. About 50,000 per year are destroyed in this way. But concrete has a colossal carbon footprint - at least 8% of global emissions caused by humans come from the cement industry alone. There is therefore environmental pressure to reduce the output of new concrete, and to maintain existing concrete buildings.

Demolition of Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road in 2023

Above: Demolition of the Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road, WGC in 2023

Writing in the Architects' Journal last November an environmental architect, Will Arnold, argued that large buildings should be protected by listing in a new Grade III. The status would apply automatically and would come with just one rule: the property may only be demolished if it is structurally unsafe, or is given special dispensation by the local planning authority. Arnold's proposal would still allow architects to alter layouts, strengthen foundations, add new floors and upgrade facades. He argues: "Such alterations are of course vital if we want to keep doing the most social good for our country. But the restriction on demolition would at last enable us to make rapid inroads towards stashing construction's huge carbon footprint." He pointed to several successful examples of regeneration and indeed the Roche HQ is another.

He concluded: "With the introduction of Grade Ill, development across the UK would change overnight. Re-using what exists already would become the norm." Had Number 29 been listed Grade III it could readily have been regenerated. Indeed, planning permission had been granted in 2019 to convert it into 72 flats. However, the developers wanted more and subsequently won permission for the current scheme. Similarly, had the large concrete and glass BioPark building nearby been protected under Grade Ill there would have been a presumption of regeneration rather that demolition. This would have been much less controversial than the planned redevelopment into high-rise apartments.

Meanwhile, the Grade II Shredded Wheat building and silos stand silent and unused. The longer they languish in this state the more they are at risk. Listing does not guarantee survival. There needs to be some form of reuse that helps both them and the community. The buildings could be regenerated provided they are properly maintained. But what about the silos? How about packing them with lithium batteries, to store surplus electricity at night for use during the day? All ideas welcome!

 Originally published in the Welwyn Hatfield Times on 15 March 2023.

The arrival of Roche in WGC and preserving its former HQ


Roche factory in Broadwater Road WGC 1940s

Have you visited Basel in Switzerland? It is one of the top European cities, and has two things in common with Welwyn Garden.

Firstly, its historic centre is separated from its business area; Basel by the Rhine, Welwyn Garden City by the East Coast main line railway. Secondly, both have notable buildings by the healthcare company Roche in their business zones. Roche's headquarters in Basel is a pair of massive pyramidal towers by Herzog & de Meuron. Its Welwyn Garden site, in Shire Park, houses around 2,000 researchers in a beautiful modern building by BDP (Building Design Partnership) whose brief was to provide 'Quality without Ostentation' - very Swiss.

Roche arrived in Broadwater Road, Welwyn Garden City, in 1937, having outgrown an office in Tower Hill. In 1934 they were the first company to mass produce synthetic vitamin C, and its success meant they needed much more space. They commissioned a leading Swiss architect, Otto Salvisberg, to design an off-white modernist HQ and laboratory, complementing the adjacent Shredded Wheat factory. It was made of reinforced concrete with a steel frame and completed in 1940. In 1939 The Architect's Journal had designated it 'Building of the Year'. Our pictures show the stylish design incorporating a magnificent spiral staircase, and a grand boardroom. This had a specially designed mural showing the Roche sites in England, by a Czech artist Waiter Trier, a Jewish emigre. The building was listed Grade II in 1980.

The Roche factory in WGC

The then new Roche building in Welwyn Garden City, with the Shredded Wheat factory in the background. Pic: WGC Heritage Trust

After the war, Roche added more buildings, initially around and matching the original one. In 1977 they ran out of space and added a large Brutalist office block on the opposite side of Broadwater Road. All these new buildings were designed by James Cubitt and Partners, leading architects of their time. In 2005, the company pulled all its staff into the new building in Shire Park and sold off previous sites.

The old HQ was bought by Taylor Wimpey. They were eventually granted permission to remove the later buildings, replacing them with blocks of flats, but were not allowed to convert the listed HQ. The council commendably wanted this preserved, either by using it still as offices or by the community in order to conserve original features such as the board room. Despite efforts to market it as offices there were no takers, and the building stood empty for ten years, gradually decaying and suffering vandalism. Eventually in 2016 another application was submitted for change of use and conversion to 34 high quality apartments. This was supported by ourselves the Heritage Trust as well as the Welwyn Garden Society and the Twentieth Century Society. Eventually the council caved in, despite misgivings that there was no affordable housing included.

The spiral staircase

The Roche factory spiral staircase. Picture courtesy Oakbridge Homes.

In 2018, Oakbridge Homes bought the site and began converting it. It was a challenge: the walls and floors throughout were covered in graffiti, windows had been smashed and frames removed for scrap, as was the bronze balustrade to the main staircase. Just as the units were ready for sale, Covid-19 put a stop to viewings. Happily their efforts were ultimately rewarded and all the units sold. It is now called Griffin Place, as a tribute to the city of Base!, which has a griffin as its heraldic symbol.

Mural in Roche boardroom WGC factory

Above: The Roche factory boardroom in Welwyn Garden City with mural.

This is a success story for lovers of our heritage; a landmark building was saved from demolition by being listed and has been repurposed to great effect. One puzzle remains: while the building was empty the board room mural vanished. If you can help retrieve it you would be doing the town and Roche a great service. Also, we do not have a colour picture of this mural can you help?