Posts for Tag: Welwyn Garden City Heritage Trust

Garden Cities – Cranky or Enlightened?

Welwyn Garden City is a brave attempt to create a Utopia – an ideal community.  The word was coined by Sir Thomas More in his political satire of the same name published after his death in 1515.  It is derived from Greek, literally good-place or no-place – ie  impossible ideal. 

In Victorian times several successful industrialists sought to build utopian model villages for their workers, inspired by a combination of religious conviction, guilt, paternalism, and self-interest. The two best known were Port Sunlight on Merseyside and Bournville near Birmingham.

Port Sunlight was founded in 1890 by William Lever, later Lord Lever, for his employees manufacturing Sunlight Soap, which he had made famous by clever advertising.  He created a beautiful and comfortable estate, which combined visual appeal and social purpose. 

Bournville’s creators were the Quaker brothers George and Richard Cadbury, who started building in 1898.  Their father John was a teetotaller who had built up a thriving business in drinking cocoa, motivated by a desire to provide a healthy alternative to alcohol which he saw as a major source of social problems. Gin shops were popular, promising ‘Drunk for a penny, Dead drunk for two pence’.  John believed that the man who abstained from alcohol could afford a joint of beef on a Sunday.   Naturally no pubs were allowed in Bournville.

Interestingly, William Lever had a similar view of alcohol. His parents were strictly observant Congregationalists; his father James was a teetotaller and a non-smoker, who applied his religious principles in his business life as well as in his personal life. William too was a life-long teetotaller.

He ran Port Sunlight on paternalistic lines and workers who lost their jobs could be almost simultaneously evicted. On the other hand, he was keen to allow the residents of Port Sunlight a degree of democratic control. In 1900 he opened the Bridge Inn which of course sold no alcohol. Within two years the workers became restive and sought to change its status to a licensed house. Lever announced that he would not impose his own views, and that the issue would be decided by a referendum; insisting somewhat unconventionally for that time that women would take part. However, he stipulated that the Bridge would only become a true British pub if a supermajority of 75% was in favour. (Very sensible – only a rash person would hold a referendum on a major issue without requiring a substantial majority in favour). He probably felt confident that the outcome would support his abstemious sentiments, but in the event more than 80% voted for an alcohol licence.

 the The World’s End is an apocalyptic science fiction comedy film from 2015.  It tells the story of five middle-aged men on a nostalgic pub crawl which gets disrupted when they discover that the locals have been taken over by aliens. Their aim had been to visit twelve pubs, finishing at one called The World’s End.  The film was shot in Letchworth, Welwyn Garden City, and for internal scenes Elstree Studios. The lead actor and writer, Simon Pegg, lives in Essendon and said that he chose the two Garden Cities as examples of pleasant modern towns.  He must have been aware of the reputation of Letchworth as being a mostly dry town with few pubs but perhaps this was all part of the joke. To make up numbers some buildings including Letchworth Station had to be dressed up as pubs.

Ebenezer Howard devoted a section of his book Garden Cities of Tomorrow to Temperance Reform.  He was not keen on alcohol but did not favour banning it completely, instead suggesting that profits from its sale should be diverted to building “asylums for those affected by alcoholism”. He proposed that the provision of services such as pubs should be decided by public ballot. 

The early settlers in Letchworth (which included Howard) were idealists seeking Utopia and far from conventional.  George Orwell somewhat sweepingly described the new town as attracting every form of “crank: fruit-juice drinker, nudist, sandal-wearer, sex-maniac, Quaker, ‘Nature-Cure’ quack, pacifist, and feminist”. (Road to Wigan Pier, p 152). 

When an enlightened ballot was set up to decide the provision of pubs, in which both men and women took part, a small majority voted against. Women carried the day, perhaps because they did not like to see men drunk.  Letchworth was a dry town until 1960 with just one inn, The Skittles, set up in 1907.  This sold only soft drinks and so was the legendary pub without beer; it was soon also without skittles as the locals shunned the game.

The Directors of the Company building Welwyn Garden were keen to avoid the cranky image of Letchworth, while maintaining its noble objectives. So, a “wet restaurant” was set up called The Cherry Tree. It was a modest wooden structure, designed by Louis de Soissons in 1921, Licenced in 1922. A larger public house replaced it in 1932, which was demolished in 1991.  The facade was retained for the Waitrose supermarket now occupying the site.

There already were pubs in the area. The Beehive in the small village of Hatfield Hyde dated from the early 17th Century, although it was only given a Licence in 1842. Owned by Lord Salisbury it became a favourite destination for early Garden citizens to walk to across the fields on a nice summer evening. Once the QEII hospital opened it was popular with hospital staff. It closed in 2016 as it was losing money and now looks very sad and empty.

The non-conformist spirit was certainly strong in Welwyn Garden. The Welwyn Times for 21/9/23 reports that, following an enquiry from the WGC Church Council, the Parish Council after a lively discussion agreed to ask the WGC Company to prohibit "calling" bells or other continuous ringing.  There followed a number of letters in the paper; one favoured a ban to " prevent a small minority disturbing the tranquillity or recreation of the vast majority. Continuous bell ringing on a Sunday is anti-social and intolerable to enlightened communities". Eventually all the churches in the area agreed not to ring their bells, which is still generally the position today.

The provision of pubs in the centre of the town remains a sensitive matter. Wetherspoons bought one of the large houses on Parkway, near the Fountain, some years ago and sought a Licence for a pub to be called the Cherry Tree. This was hotly contested by locals, ostensibly as being in the wrong location but more probably as being the wrong sort of pub. Planning permission was refused twice and in 2021 Wetherspoons threw in the bar towel and put the building up for sale. As this newspaper reports on 5th April, the building is now to be a Nursery School – so no danger of underage drinking.

The Backhouse room

On 26th August 1922 Edward Backhouse set off with a young Swiss guide to climb a mountain near Zermatt.  He was 46 and an experienced climber, but the route was taxing and he was advised to hire an additional guide.  None was available but he carried on.  After the two men failed to return a search was launched; eventually they were found dead, still roped together, at the foot of a 250 m drop. Edward was buried in the cemetery of St Peter’s in Zermatt, a Protestant Church built especially for the large number of Britons keen to climb the Matterhorn.

Edward was born in 1876 into a wealthy Quaker family.  e took a degree at Balliol and then worked for Barclays Bank (which was a merger of several Quaker Banks including Backhouse & Co).  He retired aged 40 to pursue nobler causes. During WW1 he was a conscientious objector, and worked as a baker’s roundsman in Camberwell.  At the time of his death he was the Labour candidate for Bedford. He  left £75,000, (£5.5m today).

Letchworth and Welwyn Garden City were founded by Ebenezer Howard as ideal cities, and they attracted idealists. Just before Howard unexpectedly bought the land for Welwyn in 1919 some Quakers with a connection to Letchworth had formed a Trust to back another New Town. It had money, and no land, while Howard had land but no money - a match made in heaven. In 1921 the Trust took a tenancy for 500 acres from Howard and set up an Agricultural Guild to feed the new arrivals.  It also created an Educational Association to provide schools, and built Guessens Court, a cooperative of 40 flats.

Edward Backhouse was the first Chairman of the New Town Trust, and of the Agricultural Guild, and a Director of Welwyn Garden City Ltd. It was therefore a great shock when he was killed.

As Quakers moved into Welwyn Garden they needed somewhere to worship so supported the Educational Association in converting a 17th Century open fronted cart store, part of an old farm on Handside Lane near the crossroads with Applecroft Road.  It was opened on March 23rd 1923, exactly 100 years ago, “to be used for comradeship and education”.  Naturally it was named in honour of Edward. In 1980 it was Listed Grade II.

In 1925 the Friends built a Meeting House nearby on Handside Lane, designed by Quaker architect H Clapham Lander, who had also converted the Backhouse Room. The Room carried on serving community needs, and still does today.  The Welwyn Garden City Quaker Meeting took over its management in 1962; if you are interested in renting it email backhousebooking@virginmedia.com.

There is a twist to this story.  In the 1930s Quakers were active in resettling Jews fleeing Germany, which was not easy as anti-semitism was rife, including in this country.  Jews set up Potters Bar Golf Club in 1923 because they were refused entry to local Clubs. Some rich aristocrats admired Hitler, for his opposition to Communism, including Roland, 2nd Lord Brocket, (grandfather of Charles, present Lord Brocket).  He attended Hitler’s 50th Birthday party in 1939, entertained leading Nazis at Brocket Hall including Ribbentrop, and acted as a conduit between Chamberlain and Hitler.

At that time Jews could only gain entry to the UK if they were well off, or in transit, or servants. After Kristallnacht, November 9th 1938, Jewish and Quaker community leaders persuaded the Government to allow 10,000 unaccompanied Jewish children to come here (Kindertransport). The gathering of the children, paperwork, and travel plans were coordinated by Quakers in Vienna and Berlin. In 1947 Quakers from the USA and Britain were jointly awarded a Nobel Peace Prize for this and other humane acts. The British Quaker who travelled to Oslo to collect the Prize was Margaret Backhouse, one of Edward’s sisters.       The Backhouse Room has a fine pedigree.                                   

A Brutalist building in Welwyn Garden City being demolished


Demolition of Roche building 29 Broadwater Road

In our previous article we described the successful conversion into luxury apartments of the near-derelict Roche HQ on Broadwater Road, dating from 1940. On the other side of that road, at Number 29, Roche added in 1977 a large office building to cope with their expanding business.

When Roche moved to their current beautiful new building in Shire Park in 2005, they sold off their earlier buildings - including Number 29. This was used as offices for a variety of businesses but planning permission has been granted to demolish it and build 128 affordable flats on the site. In the past month or so enormous wrecking machines have been at work to clear the site. It was a large muscular building in glass and concrete, typical of the Brutalist style which was popular in the 1960s and 70s.

Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road

Above: Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road, WGC designed by James Cubitt & Partners

Some of the more striking examples of Brutalism have been listed, but many more have fallen out of favour and suffered the fate of Number 29. It was well designed by James Cubitt & Partners, who created many of the Roche buildings in Welwyn Garden City. This practice, founded in 1947 and still in business, is highly regarded and examples of their work can be found across the world. Good design though does not provide protection, and large office blocks are falling out of favour. But should it have been demolished? It is much simpler for property developers to flatten existing buildings, then build new flats, rather than convert them. About 50,000 per year are destroyed in this way. But concrete has a colossal carbon footprint - at least 8% of global emissions caused by humans come from the cement industry alone. There is therefore environmental pressure to reduce the output of new concrete, and to maintain existing concrete buildings.

Demolition of Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road in 2023

Above: Demolition of the Roche building at 29 Broadwater Road, WGC in 2023

Writing in the Architects' Journal last November an environmental architect, Will Arnold, argued that large buildings should be protected by listing in a new Grade III. The status would apply automatically and would come with just one rule: the property may only be demolished if it is structurally unsafe, or is given special dispensation by the local planning authority. Arnold's proposal would still allow architects to alter layouts, strengthen foundations, add new floors and upgrade facades. He argues: "Such alterations are of course vital if we want to keep doing the most social good for our country. But the restriction on demolition would at last enable us to make rapid inroads towards stashing construction's huge carbon footprint." He pointed to several successful examples of regeneration and indeed the Roche HQ is another.

He concluded: "With the introduction of Grade Ill, development across the UK would change overnight. Re-using what exists already would become the norm." Had Number 29 been listed Grade III it could readily have been regenerated. Indeed, planning permission had been granted in 2019 to convert it into 72 flats. However, the developers wanted more and subsequently won permission for the current scheme. Similarly, had the large concrete and glass BioPark building nearby been protected under Grade Ill there would have been a presumption of regeneration rather that demolition. This would have been much less controversial than the planned redevelopment into high-rise apartments.

Meanwhile, the Grade II Shredded Wheat building and silos stand silent and unused. The longer they languish in this state the more they are at risk. Listing does not guarantee survival. There needs to be some form of reuse that helps both them and the community. The buildings could be regenerated provided they are properly maintained. But what about the silos? How about packing them with lithium batteries, to store surplus electricity at night for use during the day? All ideas welcome!

 Originally published in the Welwyn Hatfield Times on 15 March 2023.

The arrival of Roche in WGC and preserving its former HQ


Roche factory in Broadwater Road WGC 1940s

Have you visited Basel in Switzerland? It is one of the top European cities, and has two things in common with Welwyn Garden.

Firstly, its historic centre is separated from its business area; Basel by the Rhine, Welwyn Garden City by the East Coast main line railway. Secondly, both have notable buildings by the healthcare company Roche in their business zones. Roche's headquarters in Basel is a pair of massive pyramidal towers by Herzog & de Meuron. Its Welwyn Garden site, in Shire Park, houses around 2,000 researchers in a beautiful modern building by BDP (Building Design Partnership) whose brief was to provide 'Quality without Ostentation' - very Swiss.

Roche arrived in Broadwater Road, Welwyn Garden City, in 1937, having outgrown an office in Tower Hill. In 1934 they were the first company to mass produce synthetic vitamin C, and its success meant they needed much more space. They commissioned a leading Swiss architect, Otto Salvisberg, to design an off-white modernist HQ and laboratory, complementing the adjacent Shredded Wheat factory. It was made of reinforced concrete with a steel frame and completed in 1940. In 1939 The Architect's Journal had designated it 'Building of the Year'. Our pictures show the stylish design incorporating a magnificent spiral staircase, and a grand boardroom. This had a specially designed mural showing the Roche sites in England, by a Czech artist Waiter Trier, a Jewish emigre. The building was listed Grade II in 1980.

The Roche factory in WGC

The then new Roche building in Welwyn Garden City, with the Shredded Wheat factory in the background. Pic: WGC Heritage Trust

After the war, Roche added more buildings, initially around and matching the original one. In 1977 they ran out of space and added a large Brutalist office block on the opposite side of Broadwater Road. All these new buildings were designed by James Cubitt and Partners, leading architects of their time. In 2005, the company pulled all its staff into the new building in Shire Park and sold off previous sites.

The old HQ was bought by Taylor Wimpey. They were eventually granted permission to remove the later buildings, replacing them with blocks of flats, but were not allowed to convert the listed HQ. The council commendably wanted this preserved, either by using it still as offices or by the community in order to conserve original features such as the board room. Despite efforts to market it as offices there were no takers, and the building stood empty for ten years, gradually decaying and suffering vandalism. Eventually in 2016 another application was submitted for change of use and conversion to 34 high quality apartments. This was supported by ourselves the Heritage Trust as well as the Welwyn Garden Society and the Twentieth Century Society. Eventually the council caved in, despite misgivings that there was no affordable housing included.

The spiral staircase

The Roche factory spiral staircase. Picture courtesy Oakbridge Homes.

In 2018, Oakbridge Homes bought the site and began converting it. It was a challenge: the walls and floors throughout were covered in graffiti, windows had been smashed and frames removed for scrap, as was the bronze balustrade to the main staircase. Just as the units were ready for sale, Covid-19 put a stop to viewings. Happily their efforts were ultimately rewarded and all the units sold. It is now called Griffin Place, as a tribute to the city of Base!, which has a griffin as its heraldic symbol.

Mural in Roche boardroom WGC factory

Above: The Roche factory boardroom in Welwyn Garden City with mural.

This is a success story for lovers of our heritage; a landmark building was saved from demolition by being listed and has been repurposed to great effect. One puzzle remains: while the building was empty the board room mural vanished. If you can help retrieve it you would be doing the town and Roche a great service. Also, we do not have a colour picture of this mural can you help?

How a 'young superman' shaped the look of WGC


One hundred years ago a decision was taken that had a profound effect on Welwyn Garden City, and on Town Planning worldwide. Ebenezer Howard bought the land in 1919; Louis de Soissons was appointed Town Planner and Chief Architect in April 1920, aged 30, and came up with his famous overall plan.

House building started pretty quickly, initially to the design of a Letchworth-based architect, Courtenay Crickmer. He followed the Arts and Crafts style that had been employed at Letchworth, the first garden city, as indeed did de Soissons for the first house he designed, towards the top of Handside Lane. The Board of the Welwyn Garden City Company, set up to build the town, wanted to make a break with Letchworth and so Crickmer moved on.

De Soissons, who had trained in France in the classical school of architecture, decided that the residential areas of WGC should henceforth be in neo-Georgian style. Its characteristics were white timber sash windows, pan-tile roofs, and locally produced red bricks. This was in harmony locally as there are many examples of Georgian houses nearby, for example in Hertford, Old Hatfield and St Albans. Accordingly, in 1923 the Company issued Regulations laying down guidelines to be followed by architects. To ensure that these were met, all plans had to be submitted for approval before work commenced, either by de Soissons or his able deputy, Arthur Kenyon.

9 Handside Lane WGC

Above: A house in Handside Lane, Welwyn Garden City.

This policy was controversial. One of the leading directors of the Company, Richard Reiss (pronounced Rice), wrote in strong terms to the Board's Chairman. "I cannot consent to have de Soissons acting as a dictator on matters of taste, he has delayed building and caused a large amount of friction, if a young superman is to come and impose his will on us and stop work I for one shall have to resign". These threats did not work; de Soissons carried on; Reiss did not resign.

The Board supported Louis because it was far more than a speculative property developer. Frederic Osborn, company secretary, wrote later that it sought to educate the public in architectural appreciation, and that he had invented the slogan "Houses good to live in as well as good to look at." Louis wanted to design every aspect of the town and its buildings. Earlier architects such as Charles Rennie Mackintosh or Frank Lloyd Wright had the same idea (Gesamtkunstwerk in German - literally total work of art) but they had been limited to individual structures. Louis had a whole town to play with. So, every tree was mapped, every contour line plotted, and every structure carefully designed to be harmonious.

Louis de Soissons former home in Guessens Road WGC

Above: Louis de Soissons' former home in Guessens Road, Welwyn Garden City.

The Regulations, issued in 1923, specified that:

- Elevations should be of good appearances on all sides;

- Walls and roofs should be of sound and pleasing materials; 

- Principal rooms should have a sunny aspect; 

- Projections to the rear should be kept to a minimum; 

- Out-buildings should form part of the design.

Even boundary fences and gates had to have Louis' stamp of approval. He did not slavishly stick to neo-Georgian though. See, for example, his Free Church (now known as the United Reform Church) in Church Road of Dutch/ Expressionist style. Also, the industrial buildings on the east side of the railway line, particularly the Shredded Wheat factory that he designed, set new standards in modernism.

Above: Site Planning in Practice at Welwyn Garden City by Louis de Soissons and Arthur Kenyon.

A good source of information on Louis de Soissons' achievement is a beautifully illustrated hardback book, initiated by the Heritage Trust, Site Planning in Practice at Welwyn Garden City, which compares de Soissons' original plans with their appearance today. Priced at £35 plus P&P if required, it is available from the Trust. Contact info@welwyngarden-heritage.org